Matrixx Water Softener Support

If you have municipal water, simply shut off the main valve. Go to a faucet or spigot (preferably on the lowest floor of the house) and turn on the cold water until all pressure is relieved and the flow of water stops.

The surface should be clean and level.

NOTE: Any solder joints being soldered near the valve must be done before connecting any piping to the valve. Always leave at least 6" (152 mm) between the control valve and joints being soldered when soldering pipes that are connected to the valve. Failure to do this could cause damage to the valve.
The softener system is equipped with male pipe threaded ports on the control valve bypass. The bypass is marked with arrows to show proper flow direction. The arrow pointing toward the valve indicates the inlet. The arrow pointing away from the valve is the outlet.

3/4" and 1" male pipe thread fittings are supplied so ensure you pick the correct one for your plumbing. Tighten the retaining nuts hand tight, ensuring that the fittings are not cross threaded.

Use an adjustable wrench to ensure they are tight.

NOTE: All piping should be secured to prevent stress on the bypass valve and connectors.

NOTE: Connections above are made using a stainless steel flex connector with a rubber gasket and do not require Teflon tape.

NOTE: Be sure to secure the drain line. The softener will drain with force and it should be secured to prevent a leak. Hose clamps should be used to secure the drain line at the connection points.

Run the drain hose to the nearest laundry tub, floor drain or approved air gap fitting. The drain can be ran overhead or down along the floor. Drain tubing should be a minimum of 1/2" ID. When running the drain overhead, it is important that the tubing has no dips or kinks. If the drain is ran overhead and must run linearly to the available drain, it is recommended that a hard pipe is used of larger diameter than the drain line. This linear pipe should have a physical "drop" toward the drain (1/2" : 10'). The goal is to have a gravity drain without much back pressure when traveling long distances.

NOTE: A direct connection into a waste drain is not recommended. A physical air gap of at least 1.5" should be used to avoid bacteria and wastewater travelling back through the drain line into the softener.

Slide the nut and sleeve over the brine line. There is a brass stiffener pre-installed in the line.

Then push the nut down on the fitting and tighten it hand tight. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the nut an additional 1/2 turn.

CAUTION: Use two wrenches to tighten the brass nut. The brass fitting must be held while tightening the brass nut. If not, damage may occur to the valve body.

Remove the brine tank lid and the brine well cap. There is a red clip on the cap that will be used to hold the brine line in place.

Remove it, and the tape holding it, and put it to the side.

Then push the brine line through the brine tank and brine well. REMOVE the brass insert for this connection. Push the brine line into the brine safety valve. Make sure it is completely pushed in. Then install the red locking clip around the brine fitting between the gray collar and the brine elbow.

Install the white cap on the tube.

Slowly turn on the main water supply. At the nearest cold treated faucet or spigot, open the faucet and let water run a few minutes or until the system is free of any air or foreign material resulting from the plumbing work. If a faucet is used, make sure the screen is removed first.

Close the water tap when water runs clean. Check for leaks again.

Add a minimum of 80 lbs of salt to the brine tank.

NOTE: Salt should be filled, used completely and refilled. Salt should not be "topped off" each month. It is better to completely fill the tank with salt (full is 2" below the top of the white safety float tube in the tank) then use the salt until water can be seen on top of the salt. Then refill the salt

NOTE: The unit is not ready for service until you complete the start up instructions.